Improving Skin Function with CM-Glucan, a Biological Response Modifier form Yeast

F. Zülli and F. Suter (Mibelle AG Cosmetics, Buchs, Switzerland)
H. Biltz and H.P. Nissen (Derma Consult GmbH, Germany)

International Journal of Cosmetic Science 20: 79-86 (1998)

Preparations from yeast have been used for a long time for cosmetic and pharmaceutical purposes. Studies have identified glucan from the cell wall of baker's yeast as an immunologically active agent. Glucan is a poly beta (1-3)-linked glucopyranose of high molecular weight and belongs of the class of compounds known as biological response modifiers. Glucan preparations are involved in the activation in the body's natural defence mechanisms and in the acceleration of the skin's wound healing processes. In the skin, Langerhans' cells and keratinocytes are the immunologically competent cells. Recent studies indicate that UV irradiation can deplete the number and viability of these cells (immunosuppression). The use of non-specific immune-stimulators, such as glucan, is a new approach for improving the function of stressed skin. We have developed a process to modify pure glucan from baker's yeast to carboxymethyl glucan (CM-glucan), a water soluble product suitable for topical formulations. The functional properties of this new compound have been investigated in vitro and in vivo. Cell culture experiments showed that CM-glucan protects skin cells against the depletion of antioxidant molecules upon UV-A irradiation and promotes the growth of keratinocytes. In placebo controlled studies with healthy volunteers, the pre-treatment of skin with CM-glucan offered substantial protection against skin damage caused by a detergent challenge of UV-A irradiation. In addition, CM-glucan enhanced the renewal rate of the stratum corneum.

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CM-Glucan: A Biological Response Modifier form Baker's Yeast for Skin Care

F. Zülli and F. Suter (Mibelle AG Cosmetics, Buchs, Switzerland)
H. Biltz and H.P. Nissen (Derma Consult GmbH, Alfter, Germany)

SÖFW-Journal 123 (8): 535 - 541 (1997)

Preparations from yeast have been used for a long time for cosmetic and pharmaceutical purposes. Studies have identified glucan from the yeast's cell wall as an immunologically effective agent of these preparations. Glucan is a poly beta (1-3)-linked glucopyranose of high molecular weight and belongs to the class of drugs known as biological response modifiers (BRMs). Glucan preparations are involved in the activation of the body's natural defence mechanisms and in wound healing processes of the skin. In the skin, Langerhans cells and keratinocytes are the immunologically active cells. Recent studies indicate that UV radiation can induce a depletion of the number and viability of these cells (immuno-suppression). The use of non-specific stimulators of immunocompetent cells, such as glucan, is a new approach to improve skin function under stress. We have developed a process to modify pure glucan from baker's yeast to carboxymethyl glucan (CM-Glucan), a water-soluble product suitable for topical applications. In different experiments, the properties of the new cosmetic raw material CM-Glucan have been investigated. Cell culture experiments showed that CM-Glucan protects skin cells against the depletion of antioxidant molecules upon UV-A radiation and promotes the growth of keratinocytes. In placebo controlled studies with healthy volunteers, the pre-treatment of skin with CM-Glucan offered substantial protection against skin damage caused by detergents or UV-A radiation. In addition, CM-Glucan also enhanced the renewal rate of the stratum corneum.

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CM-Glucan, a New Yeast Polysaccharide for Cosmetic Use

F. Zülli and C. Saecker

Cosmetics and Toiletries Manufacture Worldwide 1994: 131 - 136

Polysaccharides have been used for years as thickening, stabilizing and co-emulsifying ingredients in personal care products since they are easy to formulate, very stable and highly tolerable. In addition many polysaccharides are active substances (Aloe Vera; Hyaluronic Acid). These bioactive agents have become increasingly important in all kind of products. The major activity of these polysaccharides is the improvement of skin moisture.

The objective of this paper is to present a new polysaccharide with additional beneficial properties for skin care preparations. The natural polymer is derived form yeast cell walls and has well documented immuno-stimulatory properties.

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Photoprotective Effects of CM-Glucan on Cultured Human Skin Cells

F. Zülli, F. Suter, Mibelle AG Cosmetics, Buchs, Switzerland
L. A. Applegate, E. Frenk, Photobiology Laboratory, Dermatology, CHUV, Lausanne, Switzerland

Euro Cosmetics 11: 46 - 50 (1995)

It has become increasingly apparent that exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation mediates a number of harmful effects in humans. Recent studies indicate that UV radiation can be a potent stimulator of the oxidative stress in the epidermis and can have a profound influence on the immune system. It is also known that sunscreens do not offer a complete protection against all biological effects of sunlight. The use of non-specific stimulators of the immune system in sun care formulations is a new approach to lend beneficial functions to these products. Glucan extracted form the cell wall of baker's yeast is a very potent stimulator of the immune system. In this report, we present the development of CM-Glucan, a new water-soluble glucan derivative. The protective effects of this modified yeast polysaccharide regarding oxidative stress in human skin keratinocytes and fibroblasts induced by UV-A radiation could be demonstrated by measuring intracellular glutathion and ferritin concentrations as endpoints.

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